Sunday, January 25, 2009

Chinese RR Workers' Camp

In 1914 350 Chinese laborers and 150 mules built the Death Valley Railroad from Death Valley Junction to the new mine in Ryan. Because trestles had to be built and the heat was severe, it took 11 months to complete the 17 miles of track.
A trestle was built across this expanse. The mine tailings came later. One train a day ran taking in water for the miners and hauling colmanite (borax) ore out. Working, eating and sleeping occupied almost all their time. This hillside is covered with remains of their living quarters. The walls were low. They put a tent or canvas tarp over the top and crawled inside to sleep. Most of these were large enough for only one man. Frequently we found a rock with wire wrapped around. This was how they kept the tents from blowing away. We found none of the telltale bean cans found at other mine sites however there were innumerable tobacco cans.
This is the only larger building. We're guessing the cook shack - maybe the advent of Chinese Take-Out? Or an office or....
An interesting story has surfaced since exploring Sperry Wash and reading the available history of the 12 miles of rail in Amargosa Canyon. A crew of 100 Japanese laborers only lasted a few weeks in the heat. An account reads that when the author visited he saw just 17 laborers of which only 8 were wielding picks and axes. The other 9 were spraying those workers with water to keep them from overheating. The method? They filled their mouths with water and sprayed. While not hygienic, it may have saved lives.

Scouting for a Jeep Junkie Run

West of Death Valley Junction is a wonderful area with incomparable views and dozens of mines. It was a nice day to go scouting for a special route on which to lead the Jeep Junkies for a day. This was steep with washed out areasand some big rocks. It was wise to check it out on foot first.
The Jeep had less trouble with this climb than we did. More of the wonderful desert colors.
Are you sure this is a road?
Road? The GPS says there is one here somewhere..... Perhaps we shouldn't believe everything we read? That was quite a drop before quite a climb. After miles of no discernable roads, what's one last big climb. There is a real dirt roadway up ahead. Must pick around the cacti with the BIG thorns, the boulders and then get over the really big hump at the top.
Once up and over, and before heading down the real road, it was time to stop and check out the drag mark made climbing that last several feet onto the road - whew! This is NOT the route on which to take a group.
This was just a nice place to take a break and enjoy the fabulous view. Weather has been moving our way for the past couple of hours. A light mist is beginning as we get back to the highway.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Sperry Wash

A drive through Sperry Wash turns up amazing formations. Huge boulders that weigh many hundreds or even thousands of pounds are held up by columns of "fanglomerate". This, too, is an ACEC (Area of Critical Environmental Concern). In this portion of the canyon we had been advised that petrified wood and fossilized plants have been found as far back as the 1950s. Although we looked, we were not so fortunate.
The Amargosa River travels underground for over 100 miles and here in the Amargosa Canyon comes to the surface. We understand that this water is to be found year round. It is not a seasonal happening. There were nine river crossings this day.
Naturally the boys had to play! And the gals, of course,
had a great time too.
The Tonopah & Tidewater RR once passed through Amargosa Canyon for a distance of twelve miles. The road down Sperry Wash from the Western Talc mine to the siding was 10 miles. The road was paved when the railroad ceased operation in 1941 as the trucking distance to the then nearest siding increased to 80 miles. The building of those 12 miles of rail is a story in itself. The first 76 miles went smoothly as the workers built their way north. Amargosa Canyon proved to be much more challenging. Trestles had to be built, cuts dug and long fills made. Bankruptcy claimed the contractor. The summer heat took its toll on the workers. Many worked only a few days. A crew of 100 Japanese worked just a few weeks to be replaced by Mexicans who were off the job in a month. With the advent of cooler weather, and a year after work in the canyon began, the 12 miles was completed in May of 1907.
Flash floods have washed away most of the asphalt roadway; vandals have burned the trestles and ties while sand and gravel have buried any other remnants. All that remains today is the raised railbed.
The desert trumpet again. Prior to this day I've not seen any so large as these. It's easy now to see why they were used as tobacco pipes except, if they were dried, why didn't the pipe burn as well as the tobacco? Did the Indians soak them first? Or coat them with something? Another mystery to solve....

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Western Talc Mine, Sheep Head Mtn, Dead man Pass

Looking closely one can see the profile of a desert bighorn sheep. He/she is on the face of the taller mountain. The face is reddish and has an eye.Dead Man Pass
3300 ft. elevation reads the sign. The body of a dead man was found at this location and the pass was so named. We are taking the Jeep Junkie name to a whole new level. These abandoned mine properties are just too much fun. The search for historic cans and other memorabilia took some time but we did find a decent carbide can.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Death Valley National Park and Furnace Creek Inn

Another trip to Death Valley to do research took me past the Furnace Creek Inn once again. What a beautiful place!
More photos of the variety of colors and textures that are so hauntingly beautiful.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Mengel Pass and Goler Wash to Ballarat

Today's run would take us into Warm Springs Canyon, over Mengel Pass, to Barker Ranch, through Goler Wash and beyond to the ghost town of Ballarat. This particular run is one that off-road enthusiasts put high on their lists.
The first stop of the day was at the site of the Warm Springs mine camp. The Paiutes were the first to camp here followed years later by prospectors. Of the women who searched for minerals, Louise Grantham was, by far, the most successful. In 1931 she and another person staked many claims in Warm Springs Canyon. The more comfortable living to be had here was mostly due to Louise and her feminine wish for comfort. Tamarisk trees were imported and planted. Warm spring waters fed the swimming pool. By the 1970s the camp was loaded with mobile homes used by the talc miners.
Someone has a cute sense of humor?
Our lunch stop was planned for the Geology Cabin with a view of Striped Butte. What a beautiful setting! The flag flying is a sign that a ranger or hikers are in residence. This day it was hikers from WA, one of whom came to visit with us. The young gentleman, with his family, is a frequent visitor. He said it was the first time they had seen so many vehicles visit at one time. He had to come and chat and learn what we were all about.
Driving up Mengel Pass was a test of the vehicles. Those better equipped had no problems at all; slow and easy won the game. A few lesser equipped vehicles worked a bit harder but, in the end, we all made it through unscathed. Goler Wash was to be the real challenge. We had been advised that if there was any serious trouble scaling Mengal Pass, turn back and do NOT attempt Goler Wash.
A few more of the interesting areas navigated.....
A stop was made at the Barker Ranch of Charles Manson notoriety. Not one of us had any good feelings about the place and I did not feel the desire to take photos.
During the course of the day an unusually high number of vehicles had failures of one kind or another. Upon arriving at Goler Wash, one of the high points of the day, we were running late and were short on daylight. There was no time for photo op stops. Suffice it to say that it was spectacular and we hope to go back in March, when the days are longer. And surprisingly, the wash had apparently been cleared of difficulties. We all sailed through as we wondered around which curve we would encounter difficulty.
Our final stop of the day was at Ballarat, another mining ghost town.
We still had over 2 hours of driving before arriving back home. It had been a delightful day with one hundred miles logged off road.